The calamari sandwich reinvented: El Lince and Cokima surprise in Madrid

In Madrid’s gastronomic imagination there are three icons that act as a compass for castizo appetite: cocido, callos, and, of course, the calamari sandwich. The latter, seemingly humble, hides a culinary identity that evolves without losing its essence. Two places in Madrid champion this classic from very different perspectives, but equally appealing.

For decades, the epicenter of this bite has been Plaza Mayor, where tourism and tradition coexist among counters full of golden fried dishes. However, today’s food scene demands we look further, and this year the lead takes us to Plaza de Pedro Zerolo, 10. Madrid. Tel. 91 246 97 81. https://ellincerestaurante.com/. There, chef Javi Estévez — well known for his championing of offal and cooking without artifice — signs a contemporary version at El Lince.

At its Chueca location, El Lince offers a crystal bread mollete with calamari, kewpie and lime (€6.50), which shows that innovation is not at odds with respect for the product. The bread, light and crisp, serves as a base for tender calamari, perfectly fried in clean oil, where technique makes all the difference. The Japanese mayonnaise adds a fatty, umami note, while the lime introduces an unexpected freshness that lifts the whole. It is a sandwich that does not aim to break with tradition, but to reinterpret it intelligently.
The success of this proposal lies in its balance: there are no excesses, no unnecessary fireworks. Just good product, good execution and a contemporary reading of the popular recipe book. In addition, its availability — indoors, at the counter or on the terrace, every day — and the promotional detail for April 14 (with beer included) make it a perfect plan. On top of this comes the recent launch of its delivery service, which extends the reach of a proposal designed to be enjoyed without complications.

On the other side of the city, in Argüelles, we find a much freer and more wandering interpretation. Cokima (Andrés Mellado, 21. Madrid. Tel. 91 598 94 01. www.grupotombo.com/cokima-kitchenmadness/), faithful to its spirit of carefree fusion, presents a “bocata” that is actually a dumpling of stewed cuttlefish with its ink aioli (€14). Here the concept is stretched almost to breaking point, yet without losing the nod to its origin.
The dumpling dough replaces the bread, enveloping an intense, deep filling in which the flavor of the sea is concentrated in every bite. The ink aioli adds character and a visually appealing touch, while Asian technique engages with the Madrid imagination in a well-executed exercise of cross-cultural blending. It is not a sandwich in the usual sense, but it is a reinterpretation that shows just how malleable this classic can be.

Cokima has spent years exploring this line of hybrid cooking, where castizo elements mix with international references without complexes. Its new menu reinforces that identity and makes this dish a perfect excuse to rediscover the restaurant. It is a riskier proposal, designed for a curious diner, willing to question traditional labels.

Both versions — El Lince’s and Cokima’s — reflect two ways of understanding gastronomic evolution: one more conservative, which polishes and perfects; the other more disruptive, which transforms and reinterprets. Neither is better than the other. They simply respond to different sensibilities.
What is interesting is that the calamari sandwich, far from being anchored in nostalgia, remains alive in the city’s culinary conversation. It is no longer just a tourist symbol or a quick fix: it is a canvas onto which chefs project their creativity.